Parts
No parts specified.
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X-Bearing assemblies need to be installed here.
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M4 x 18mm bolt
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M4 penny washer
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M4 washer (x3)
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Note, there are two M4 washers under the bearing.
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624zz bearing
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M4 nyloc
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Install like so in these four locations, make sure they are tight and that the bearings can also still spin.
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Install two of the fixed guides here.
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M4 x 30mm bolt
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M4 Nyloc
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Secure these tightly making sure that the back of them are parallel with the back of the base.
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Note, the final versions of the guides are black.
Never mind. That’s what the eccentric guides are for. Sorry.
Okay…it becomes apparent when inserting the platform. Keeping these slightly loose will make it easier to slide to the platform into place. Then I tightened them making sure the platform could slide easily.
How well aligned do these need to be? Might have been easier to square these up without the uprights and motors attached.
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Install two eccentric guides here.
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M4 x 30mm bolt
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M4 nyloc
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Secure these firmly but do not tighten, you should still be able to rotate them by hand.
Point the marking inward when you insert the platform.
It would be easier to install these before the LCD.
I cannot get the nut inside because there is no room
Because of this, I cannot continue.
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Double check that the platform is flat, you may need to bend it against a table edge slightly to get it flat, it doesn’t need to be perfect as auto-levelling will compensate in software.
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Fix to the left side of the platform an M4 x 18mm bolt.
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M4 x 18mm bolt
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M4 nyloc
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Note, the final version of the platform is slightly different to what's photographed. This is where the M4 bolt should be fastened.
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Note also the orientation of the platform, the flanged edges should be facing down and the Pi cam mounting hole should be on the bottom left.
Argh! Just now assembling my Octopi camera and realize the “left” side of my bed should have the holes in which is where the camera should go. Doh. I really don’t want to reassemble all that, especially when it is actually printing pretty well and hearing about everyone else’s issues. I’m going to try and mount it on this side, but guess it won’t be great view, doesn’t appear to actually block the gantry or anything.
As long as the warp is not too bad it shouldn’t be an issue, auto-levelling should compensate. If you have a heated bed though, make sure that it is flat.
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Only complete this step if you do not have the heated bed upgrade.
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The included magnets are very strong and should be handled with care. Magnets are also brittle and should never be slammed together. Keep clear of metal objects. Always slide a magnet to separate it from a surface.
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Carefully slide a magnet off the stack. The easiest way to remove a magnet from the stack is to first twist it and then slide and pull it off.
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Arrange the magnets like shown and use either double sided or regular clear tape to secure it to the underside of the platform.
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Underside of platform.
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Apply the tape to the same side/pole of each magnet. This is easy to do by making sure that each magnet is taken from the same side of the stack and is fixed down on the same side.
Where are the magnets?
You should only have magnets if you have the flexplate upgrade.
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Drop a belt pulley onto the X-motor with the grub screw side facing upwards.
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Thread the belt around the pulley and between the bearing like shown.
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Make sure that the teeth side of the belt are facing inwards.
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Slide the platform onto the guides from the left side, like shown.
It may be worth mentioning that rotating the eccentric guides allows for easier installation of the platform, and then they can be rotated once the platform is in place to take up any slack movement.
The platform doesnt seem to be able to fit between the posts no matter the way I try. The platform seems warped.
Could you please provide images in the forum here:
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On the right side of the platform fasten on a M4 x 30mm bolt
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M4 x 30mm bolt
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M4 Nyloc
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Tie the right side of the GT2 belt onto the M4x30mm bolt that you secured in the previous step.
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Use two cable ties.
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Make sure that the teeth are facing inwards and that the belt is still following the same path through the bearing idlers.
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Put the Axis onto its back for easier access to the other side of the belt.
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Pull the belt around the bolt, do so tightly and use a bulldog clip to hold in place temporarily. Or ask some one to hold the belt together with a pair of pliers.
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Make sure that the belt is still correctly weaved through the bearing idlers.
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Whilst under tension, use cable ties to firmly secure the belt in place.
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Cut off any excess, leaving about an inch.
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We recommend that the belt be "guitar string tight". Too tight or too loose and print quality will be affected. If in doubt, tighter is usually better, but if you start warping the metal then you've gone too far.
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Adjust the eccentric guides at the front of the base to get a good hold onto the platforms edge.
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The Idlers have a marking on them. Start by pointing this marking inwards. Turning the guide clockwise will tighten it against the platform and vice versa.
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Rotate the x-axis pulley to check the platforms motion.
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The platforms movement should be straight and with out any wobble.
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Once happy with the platforms motion, tighten the bolts holding the eccentric guides to fix them in place and prevent any further rotation.
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Before starting make sure the flexplate surface is clean.
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Peel away the backing from the right side of the surface sticker.
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Fix the sticker onto the edge of the flexplate making sure to carefully align it with the top and bottom edges.
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Pull away the backing paper and press down the sticker.
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Check that the flexplate attaches well to the platform.
I would not install this sticker because it is thick and the leveling probe is not going to detect it. The probe will always detect the flex plate underneath this sticker. If you are leveling via the probe, be sure to add the thickness of this sticker into consideration! I flipped over my flex plate and I am now printing on a smooth surface and with the probe detecting correctly the distance.
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When pushed all the way to the left the platform should bump the X-Endstop.
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The platform should also be able to be pushed all the way to the right, like shown with the bottom of the bolt clearing the top of the base. Don't push any further as it will cause it to fall off the guides.
That plate is the heated bed and is an optional upgrade.
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5 Comments
I'm not sure what the material for the black guides is but the friction seems high. This even with the guides backed off.
1. belt should be fixed length with a tensioner or get rid of it and have a proper transport system. tensioning of belt is ridiculous.
2. nylon runners for the table- not happy, these will be replaced by abec 7 bearings asap.
We tried using clear packing tape to attach the magnets to the plate. However, they kept popping off onto the base of the printer. Is there a better solution?
I used double sided Gorilla Tape and it worked great.
We’d suggest using stronger tape if you’re finding the steel base is pulling the magnets away, or you could wrap the tape all the way around the platform, keeping it as flat as possible on the top side.
