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  1. Download the following:

    Can you make this a little more complicated to download.. Lost….

    Tom Casper - Reply

    • Open Marlin.ino in the Arduino IDE

    • Marlin -> Marlin.ino

    • Go to File -> Preferences and check "Display line numbers"

    I Have been working on this for an hour. You guys need to make a video on how to do this or supply a flash drive with the software.

    Tom Casper - Reply

    Marlin.ino in in the folder: AXIS-master\Axis Marlin Firmware\Marlin\

    Lewis - Reply

    Thanks ! .

    Louis Girard -

  2. If you have installed the heated bed upgrade you will need to activate it in Marlin to use it.
    • If you have installed the heated bed upgrade you will need to activate it in Marlin to use it.

    • In Configuration.h scroll to line 417 and set the TEMP_SENSOR_BED value to "1".

  3. Skip this step if you don't have any TMC2208 drivers installed.
    • Skip this step if you don't have any TMC2208 drivers installed.

    • In the Arduino IDE go to Sketch -> Include Library -> Manage Libraries...

    • Search for TMCStepper and install the latest version.

  4. Skip this step if you don't have any TMC2208 drivers installed.
    • Skip this step if you don't have any TMC2208 drivers installed.

    • Scroll down to the Stepper Drivers section of the Configuration.h file.

    • Replace A4988 with TMC2208 depending on where you have the drivers installed on the board.

    • The example shows TMC2208 drivers installed on just the X and Y axes.

  5. When running the TMC2208 drivers you will also need to invert the motor directions for the axes that you have them installed on:
    • When running the TMC2208 drivers you will also need to invert the motor directions for the axes that you have them installed on:

    • Scroll to line 1067 (File -> Preferences -> display line numbers) and set as shown if that axis has a TMC2208 driver installed:

    • INVERT_X_DIR true

    • INVERT_Y_DIR true

    • INVERT_Z_DIR false

    • INVERT_E0_DIR true

    • INVERT_E1_DIR true

  6. In the USB driver folder on PC double click on the CH341SER Driver - PC.EXE file. On MAC see the Readme.pdf file in the Mac folder. You may need to right click, "run as admin" to open.
    • In the USB driver folder on PC double click on the CH341SER Driver - PC.EXE file. On MAC see the Readme.pdf file in the Mac folder.

    • You may need to right click, "run as admin" to open.

    • Once open, click INSTALL.

    • Once done, you should get a success message, click OK and close the programme.

    I can’t figure out what this is. How do I get to it?

    Brad - Reply

    AXIS-master\Drivers\CH341SER_Windows

    geovaldez - Reply

    This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here:

    http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER...

    Makertech - Reply

    Do I need to install a driver on Linux (Ubuntu 20.04)?

    Starbeamrainbowlabs - Reply

    If it’s not connecting automatically, then yes.

    Makertech -

  7. Before continuing, move all of the axes to safe positions:
    • Before continuing, move all of the axes to safe positions:

    • X and Y to approx the centre.

    • And Z raised approx 100mm.

  8. Connect the AXIS to your PC via the usb cable. On windows you can open device manager by right clicking the windows icon. The Printer should show up as CH340, note the COM port number. In this case COM4.
    • Connect the AXIS to your PC via the usb cable.

    • On windows you can open device manager by right clicking the windows icon. The Printer should show up as CH340, note the COM port number. In this case COM4.

    • We recommend using USB2.0 ports as 3.0/SS ports have been known to cause problems.

    it look like that is a micro usb. my board has a printer port on it and i did not get one of those

    Brad - Reply

    Port and cable is USB type B

    Makertech -

    My pc can’t detect the board.

    I checked the cable, installed the firmware, closed other software…

    Louis Girard - Reply

    Check the USB connection at both the printer and PC end, is it plugged in firmly?

    Make sure you are not connecting into a USB 3.0 port.

    Close other software that may be trying to access the printer, like any other slicer software, including Makertech Cura and the Arduino IDE also.

    Check PC/MAC firewalls and antivirus software that might be blocking the connection.

    With the board connected to the PC with the USB cable, press the red reset button at the centre of the board.

    Make sure that you have the drivers installed:

    Stage 09: Firmware

    When installing the driver make sure you are running as administrator and can make the necessary changes to your PC.

    This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here:

    http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER...

    Makertech -

    So my TMC2208 drivers didnt work, I installed the regular ones, and redid the firmware. I finally got a AXIS ready. I started testing the endstops and they work. All of a sudden, it disconnected. my computer wont recognize the printer. the LCD still lights up though. i only have USB 3.0 on my computer so thats what i was using. Did i fry my board?

    Brad - Reply

    My computer wont recognize the printer anymore. I only have a USB SS on my computer. Is there a way to downgrade the port or bypass it somehow? Please help!!!!

    Brad - Reply

    Try reinstalling the driver. Try a different PC also. If you’re still unable to connect then it’s likely the USB driver chip has been fried and the board would need replacing.

    Makertech -

  9. Go to tools and set the port to the COM number that is for the AXIS. Make sure that the board and processor are both set to Mega 2560.
    • Go to tools and set the port to the COM number that is for the AXIS.

    • Make sure that the board and processor are both set to Mega 2560.

    • Finally upload the firmware to the AXIS.

    When we go to upload the firmware to the axis we get a timeout error. Could you please advise on how best to fix this?

    Thank you.

    Devon Molloy - Reply

    Check the USB connection at both the printer and PC end.

    Close other software that may be trying to access the printer, like any other slicer software, including Makertech Cura and the Arduino IDE also.

    Check PC/MAC firewalls and antivirus software that might be blocking the connection.

    Make sure that you have the drivers installed:

    Stage 09: Firmware

    This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here:

    http://www.wch-ic.com/downloads/CH341SER...

    Makertech -

    im getting a TMC connection error. In the wiring section i noticed the note about having one jumper per upgraded chip. i dont think i have the jumpers

    Brad - Reply

    Please contact us for jumpers, info@makertech3d.com

    Makertech -

    i did get the jumpers. thank you

    I’m still getting a connection error

    X, Y, and Z are flashing between 300,200,0 and ???, ???, ?

    Brad -

    That’s normal, as you will need to home before the printer knows where it is.

    Makertech -

    I got this error message:

    In file included from sketch\src\module/stepper/indirection.h:44:0,

    from sketch\src\module/stepper.h:47,

    from sketch\src\MarlinCore.cpp:37:

    sketch\src\module/stepper/trinamic.h:29:10: fatal error: TMCStepper.h: No such file or directory

    #include <TMCStepper.h>

    ^~~~~~

    compilation terminated.

    exit status 1

    Error compiling for board Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.

    Stefan Keller - Reply

    Check that you have the driver library installed:

    Stage 09: Firmware

    Makertech -

    Hi! I got the following error message, any help would be much appreciated!

    C:\Users\srkah\AppData\Local\Temp\ccK5bmVA.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `main':

    C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/main.cpp:43: undefined reference to `setup'

    C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/main.cpp:46: undefined reference to `loop'

    collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status

    exit status 1

    Error compiling for board Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.

    SKahn - Reply

    Make sure you've extracted the entire folder from the GitHub download .zip before opening in arduino.

    Also make sure that the files are all still in the same folders, do not move anything.

    Makertech -

  10. Once the firmware has completed uploading, connect the AXIS to the mains. When powered up, check that the electronics fan and the hotend fan are both spinning. When powered up, check that the electronics fan and the hotend fan are both spinning.
    • Once the firmware has completed uploading, connect the AXIS to the mains.

    • When powered up, check that the electronics fan and the hotend fan are both spinning.

    My fans are not spinning, they did for a moment and then they didn”t,

    I’ve already reuploaded the arduino software but it doest work. And yes before that I resetted it.

    And yes they are plugged in

    Darkrider - Reply

    So I found the problem, one of my psu’s just broke after a couple of minutes, there also is some ratling inside of it.

    How do I get a new one? as quickly as I can get one, I am prepared to buy one myself.

    Darkrider -

    Please send us an email at info@makertceh3d.com. A compatible PSU can also be found here:

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40004331...

    24V, 4A minimum.

    Makertech -

  11. Open the Pronterface software.
    • Open the Pronterface software.

    • Set the port to the same COM number.

    • Set the baudrate to 250000.

    • Finally, hit connect.

    • If you get an EEPROM error send M502 followed by M500 to reset and save the EEPROM.

    yeah when i do this i get these results

    Connecting...

    start

    Printer is now online.

    echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3

    echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)

    echo:Compiled: Aug 7 2020

    echo: Free Memory: 3141 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232

    echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V76)

    echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded

    Testing X connection... Error: All LOW

    Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW

    Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW

    Testing E connection... Error: All LOW

    Testing E1 connection... Error: All LOW

    echo:SD init fail

    hopefully you can help

    Henry - Reply

    Could you please post this in forum, also mention what your setup is please, which drivers are installed.

    https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/...

    Makertech -

    OSX Catalina users:

    You’ll either need to build pronterface yourself or you can use the binary linked in this thread (from their github issues):

    https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/issu...

    The one listed in their downloads is a 32bit binary (Catalina no longer supports 32bit apps).

    Andrew LeRoy - Reply

    when i connect all motors seem ok but one:

    Testing X connection... OK

    Testing Y connection... OK

    Testing Z connection... OK

    Testing E connection... OK

    Testing E1 connection... Error: All LOW

    Any debugging tips?

    Wim - Reply

    i have 2 Errors:

    Connecting...

    start

    Printer is now online.

    echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3

    echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)

    echo:Compiled: Aug 14 2020

    echo: Free Memory: 3407 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232

    echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V76)

    echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded

    Testing X connection... Error: All LOW

    Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW

    echo:SD init fail

    Thomas S. - Reply

    First check that you don't have any of the jumpers under the TMC boards installed.

    Then also make sure you have a single jumper installed on the corresponding UART position on the control board. Whilst powered off you can also trying removing an reinstalling the jumper.

    See blue arrows:

    Stage 08: Wiring

    Also check you have the latest library installed from step 4:

    Stage 09: Firmware

    Makertech - Reply

    When connecting the printer to Pronterface, the following message showed up

    “Error:MAXTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed

    [ERROR] Error:MAXTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed

    Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

    [ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!”

    I have this error. But my fans worked and the heated bed was not even even heated up. Please help

    Alexis - Reply

    Check the heated bed’s thermistor at first the board, is it plugged in securely and to the correct position? Next check the cable, does it look OK? Finally, carefully peel back the tape holding the bead in place on the heated bed and check that none of the wiring is exposed and shorting. As a final resort you may need to replace the thermistor.

    Makertech -

  12. Send an M119 command to check the status of the endstops. They should all report back &quot;open&quot;. Manually push down the X-Axis endstop, and whilst keeping it pushed, send the M119 command again. It should report back as &quot;triggered&quot;.
    • Send an M119 command to check the status of the endstops.

    • They should all report back "open".

    • Manually push down the X-Axis endstop, and whilst keeping it pushed, send the M119 command again. It should report back as "triggered".

    • Repeat this for the Y-axis endstop also.

    Hi,

    I have a problem with this step. After sending M119 command I get “TRIGGERED“ status on all endstops. What might be the problem? What should I check? I tried newest Marlin 2.0.6, There was some ERR with the EEPROM. Steering in XYZ axis works.

    Bartosz - Reply

    Allright, solved.

    -I reflashed once again Marlin2.0.5.3,

    -got ERR EEPROM version,

    -Send the machine a M502 then M500 to write the current setting in firmware to the eeprom

    -turned off and on, waited, than it worked ok (all triggers open, then checked triggered)

    Bartosz -

  13. Whilst holding a metal object under the probe (a red light should shine) send the M119 command. Pronterface should return:  z_min: TRIGGERED. When the metal object is removed, (and the red light now not shining) send the M119 command again. This time it should return as open.
    • Whilst holding a metal object under the probe (a red light should shine) send the M119 command.

    • Pronterface should return: z_min: TRIGGERED.

    • When the metal object is removed, (and the red light now not shining) send the M119 command again. This time it should return as open.

  14. Send an M106 command to power on the part cooling fan.
    • Send an M106 command to power on the part cooling fan.

    • Send an M107 command to turn it off.

  15. Use the control interface on pronterface to move the printer axes. Make sure to only move 10mm at a time. Because we haven't homed yet there is a potential for a crash so movements need to be small, we are only confirming movement in the correct direction here.
    • Use the control interface on pronterface to move the printer axes. Make sure to only move 10mm at a time. Because we haven't homed yet there is a potential for a crash so movements need to be small, we are only confirming movement in the correct direction here.

    • X-Axis: Pressing the left arrow will move the bed to the right, and vice versa.

    • This is correct as the nozzle position has moved in a negative direction relative to the platform.

    • Y-Axis: Pressing the down arrow will move the Hotend towards the front of the printer and vice versa.

    • Z-Axis: Pressing the up arrow on the Z-axis will move the gantry up and vice versa.

    • If an axis moves in the opposite direction see the next step.

    Careful! While testing the X-Motion, I moved the Board to the maximum right (left arrow). it did not stop, it moved until it left the holders and the complete printer was falling to the right side due to the weight (fortunatly I was there to catch it).

    Torsten Unger - Reply

    • If an axis from the previous step moves in the wrong direction power off your printer.

    • In the aruino IDE go to the "configuration.h" tab.

    • Scroll down to lines 1066-1069. (Go to File -> Preferences and check "Display line numbers")

    • #define INVERT_X_DIR true

    • Change false to true to switch the motors direction depending on the problem axis (X, Y or Z).

    • Re-upload the firmware.

    • Continue from the previous step.

    Touchscreen?

    Andrew LeRoy - Reply

    Typo carried forward from the 2S, it’s been corrected now.

    Makertech -

  16. Click in the following order, allow each command to complete before moving to the next: Home X - The platform will move all the way to the left until the end-stop on the base is triggered.
    • Click in the following order, allow each command to complete before moving to the next:

    • Home X - The platform will move all the way to the left until the end-stop on the base is triggered.

    • Home Y - The hotend will move towards the z-pillar until the eccentric guide triggers the end-stop on the gantry.

    • Lower the Z axis - Lower the gantry incrementally to check the that the nozzle is aligned with the top right corner of the print surface, this is your (300,200) co-ordinate.

    • The hotend nozzle should be above the top right corner of the print surface.

    When homing the Y-axis, it runs to the max length and then gets stuck and sends a kill order. Do i need to invert the motor? Since there’s no end stop for Y max i am wondering if it’s measuring the wrong thing

    Daniël KN - Reply

    When the Hotend is furthest from the LCD display, that is it’s max point, I assume you mean that it’s running to the front of the gantry when you home, in that case you do need to invert your motor direction.

    Makertech -

    I do not understand this Step. I have tried this numerous times and when I hit the HOME (X, Y, Z) or the main HOME it rives to the the limit switch and keeps trying to move more…

    Nicklas - Reply

    Did all of the end-stops pass the checks from step 13? Your motors may not be getting enough power, if you’re running the a4988 drivers increase the current being sent to the corresponding motor by turning the trimpot incrementally clock wise.

    Makertech -

    I am running the TCM 2208s. I ordered this with all upgrades. Yes, everything up until this point has worked fine. Do you have clearer direction pertaining to this step or an actual Support Number/Chat?

    Nicklas -

    Nothing from @makertech ….

    Nicklas -

    We’ve added a little more info to this step, if you’re still having problems could you, in the forum, please post a short video of what the printer is doing wrong so we can better understand the problem.

    Makertech -

    I’m getting this after I do the Y home:

    echo:busy: processing

    echo:busy: processing

    echo:busy: processing

    echo:busy: processing

    Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

    [ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!

    And then I can’t do anything until I disconnect and reconnect.

    Sarah Gibson - Reply

    Never mind, I solved it.

    Sarah Gibson - Reply

  17. If you have the Flexplate upgrade make sure it is on the platform before starting. Click &quot;motors off&quot; in Pronterface. Manually move the tool carriage so that the probe is hovering over the centre of the platform. Lower the gantry by hand so that the nozzle comes close to the print surface. Once close enough the red light on the probe should come on before the nozzle hits the print surface.
    • If you have the Flexplate upgrade make sure it is on the platform before starting.

    • Click "motors off" in Pronterface. Manually move the tool carriage so that the probe is hovering over the centre of the platform.

    • Lower the gantry by hand so that the nozzle comes close to the print surface. Once close enough the red light on the probe should come on before the nozzle hits the print surface.

    • Ideally, when the probe is triggered (as soon as its light shines) the tip of the nozzle should be no more than 1mm above the print surface.

    • Nozzle hits the print surface before the red light on the probe comes on:

    • Lower the probes position on the mount and check again.

    • Red light on probe but nozzle tip is too far away from the print surface:

    • Raise the probes position on the mount and check again.

    If X & Y are in Home position, then the probe is not over any metal and thus not triggered, is that correct? I take it we need to move the Y by -24 (forward from home) to get the probe over the Flexplate & heating bed, correct? Doing this, I was able to get my probe triggered when the head was about 0.5mm from the Flexplate.

    Jay - Reply

    Move the probe to the centre of the platform to get the best reading - instructions have just been updated.

    Makertech -

    Motors Off command does not seem to work.

    Pronterface sends M84, however afterwards I can still move all motors with the Pronterface commands

    Torsten Unger - Reply

    M84 will disable the motors so you can move them freely by hand, using pronterface to move them again is normal behaviour.

    Makertech -

  18. Home all of the axes by clicking here or sending G28. Before sending the command be ready to unplug the power from the printer in case of a crash.
    • Home all of the axes by clicking here or sending G28.

    • Before sending the command be ready to unplug the power from the printer in case of a crash.

    • If you do crash, disconnect/reconnect from pronterface before powering back on again. Check your probe setup is triggering correctly.

    When homing, my X and Z axes move in position like shown, but my Y axis moves completely to the front. How can I fix this?

    Most of the time with moving the Y-axis it behaves very strangely

    Bas - Reply

    If you swap the driver around does the problem move axes? If so, replace with the included spare driver. Remember to always be powered off, from both the mains and USB, when unplugging drivers.

    Makertech -

    When homing, my printer moves to the bottom left corner of the print surface, then crashes. The screen thinks its at 150, 74. Is there a way to fix this?

    SKahn - Reply

    The printers axes are over shooting. Check your drivers and the jumpers underneath them. Remember for the red A4988 drivers you need all three jumpers installed. For the white TMC2208 drivers, there shouldn’t be any installed under them, just one on the corresponding UART pins, see steps 17-20:

    Stage 08: Wiring

    Makertech -

  19. After successfully homing with G28 run the G29 autolevel command. 20 points on the print surface will be probed and a mesh of the surface will be created.
    • After successfully homing with G28 run the G29 autolevel command.

    • 20 points on the print surface will be probed and a mesh of the surface will be created.

    • Once a mesh is generated send M500 to save it to the printers memory.

    evrytime i run the command G29, the Z axis moves up and then i get this

    SENDING:G29

    echo:busy: processing

    echo:busy: processing

    Error:Probing Failed

    [ERROR] Error:Probing Failed

    Henry - Reply

    If the probe was trigerring fine from previous steps, then it’s likely that the gantry arm isn’t level enough. Power off and adjust the eccentric spacers on the gantry until the hotend is parallel with the platform in the Y-direction at both the front and back of the platform. The deviation should be no more than 2mm.

    Makertech -

    I have adjusted the gantry as best i possibly can but it keeps coming up with the same problem, is the Z axis supposed to go up after every command i input?

    Henry -

    I get the same problem. Once i get the gantry level, then its too tight to do anything

    kevin - Reply

    Have a read through this post on the Z-axis and Z-wobble:

    https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/...

    The G29 command will probe the print platform, gantry should move up and down at each probing point.

    If you find your Z-axis struggling to move it’s because there’s likely because the guides are on too tight or there’s not enough current going to the motor.

    On the a4988 drivers you can turn the trimpot clockwise in small increments to increase current. For the TMC2208’s current is adjusted in firmware, please post in the forum for more help.

    Makertech - Reply

  20. Send G28 to home all axes.
    • Send G28 to home all axes.

    • Send "M420 S0" to turn off the auto-levelling.

    • Send M114 to report the nozzle position, the Z-axis should be at 0

    If home does not leave z in 0? I lower it to 0?

    Jim_Yang - Reply

    Yes, lower to 0.

    Makertech -

    After this step, Z is at 1.9 but the probe and head are aligned as in step 19 with no room to lower Z to 0. Do I reset Z to 0 in this position? How?

    Cristian Iaciu - Reply

    Make sure you have sent M420 S0 to turn of the auto-levelling offset.

    Makertech -

    Steps I took: Sent G28 -> display and Pronterface says Z is 1.9; Sent M420 S0 -> Bed Leveling OFF and Fade Height OFF; Sent M114 -> Z is still 1.9.

    What does this measure? What do I have to adjust by 1.9mm ?

    Cristian Iaciu -

    I see that with Bed Leveling ON (M420 SO) Z is 2.41 and with Bed leveling OFF (M420 S0) Z is 1.9

    Cristian Iaciu -

    If you are doing the leveling via this method, be sure to add into calculation the thickness of the sticker on top of your flex plate! The probe is not detecting that! I flipped over my flex plate and will remove the sticker in the near future. This removes any extra mm to the Z offset and provides a smooth surface to print on!

    Cristian Iaciu - Reply

  21. Place a folded piece of paper between the nozzle and print surface. Lower the Z axis in 0.1mm increments until the nozzle grips onto the paper. Send the M114 command again to report the Z-axis position.
    • Place a folded piece of paper between the nozzle and print surface. Lower the Z axis in 0.1mm increments until the nozzle grips onto the paper.

    • Send the M114 command again to report the Z-axis position.

    • The amount that you lowered the z axis by is your Z-offset.

    • In this example case M114 reported the new z-position to be -1 when lowered to grip the paper. There for the Z-offset is 1mm.

    • Enter M206 Z(value)

    • As in this example case the Z-offset was found to be 1, we enter "M206 Z1".

    • Send an M500 command to save it to the printers memory.

    What do you mean when you say that he grabs the paper? When does resistance or when it prevents to remove the paper?

    And another question:

    If the final result is between 0.1 and 0.9, should the command be sent with decimals?

    Jim_Yang - Reply

    When it prevents the moving of the paper. Yes, decimal values are OK to send.

    Makertech -

    How much “prevent the paper from moving” are we talking about here? I gets very difficult to move at -0.9, and stays about the same through -1.1. I was afraid to go further down in fear of ramming the head into the Flexplate. I’ll leave it with “M206 Z0.9” for now and see how things go. I wonder if I have too much play in my Z-axis. Not exactly easy to set this up as a newbie and not knowing what “right” is.

    Jay - Reply

    From how you’re describing it, 0.9 is fine. A thing to note about the z-axis is that there shouldn’t be any play in the lead screw between the bracket holding it down and the top of the z-motor shaft holding it up. The bracket should also be secured as flat.

    Makertech -

  22. Take your PLA filament and cut a sharp end. Place the spool onto the holder and feed the filament in through the extruder like shown, until it hits the bottom of the hotend.
    • Take your PLA filament and cut a sharp end.

    • Place the spool onto the holder and feed the filament in through the extruder like shown, until it hits the bottom of the hotend.

    How far should the double extruder filament go? Which of the two filaments should reach the hotend?

    Jim_Yang - Reply

    For dual extrusion, the filament from the left extruder should reach the bottom of the hotend. Then the second filament should be fed to the splitter until it can’t go any further and then be pulled back by about an inch.

    Makertech -

  23. Make sure that the 30mm fan is spinning, this fan should always be one, powering your hotend without this fan on will cause damage. Raise the gantry up by between 60-80mm
    • Make sure that the 30mm fan is spinning, this fan should always be one, powering your hotend without this fan on will cause damage.

    • Raise the gantry up by between 60-80mm

    • Set the hotend to 200 degrees and press set to begin heating.

    • Wait for the hotend to heat up.

    • Caution - the Hotend will cause burns if touched while hot!

    Wait. Where’s the step for installing the PTFE tubing?

    Andrew LeRoy - Reply

    Step has been updated to mention connecting the other end to the extruder.

    Makertech -

    Agreed, all of the sudden it seems I should have done this already and I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere. The “updated” step doesn’t really talk about what I’m doing to install this either. What is the brass screw nozzel on here too? I take it I take that off, but missing a step somewhere.

    Jay -

    Thanks for pointing this out about the brass coupling, it should be removed. The step has been updated.

    Makertech -

    Hot end heats up until 151*C -> loud beep + message : Heating Failed: E1

    Steven Van Becelaere - Reply

    1. Make sure on the hotend that there’s a gap between the heater block and heat sink.

    2. Check the heater cables are secure on the board and nothing is causing any extra resistance.

    3. Check that the thermistor is properly seated in the hotend and also plugged in securely to the board.

    Makertech -

    Thanks for adding in the tubing directions to this step, but honestly it should probably come before the filament-insertion step. Inserting the filament without the tubing puts kinks in it and breaks it. also wouldn’t hurt to potentially elaborate on the tubing a bit more (it’s a straightforward step, but always nice to have an overkill explanation to make sure we are doing everything right…)

    Matt - Reply

    Grmpf, the step of inserting the tubing is definetly too late here! The pressure I had to apply to get is in was sufficinet to change my carefully set nozlle position. Now I have to go through all the steps of adjusting the perfect height again.

    Torsten Unger - Reply

    Thanks for the comment, we’ve moved that step to the end of the extruder stage.

    Makertech -

  24. Once the hotend has reached 200 degrees celcius, you can begin extruding. Press extrude to extrude the filament. Check the motion of the drive gear, it should turn anti-clockwise in order to feed filament into the hotend.
    • Once the hotend has reached 200 degrees celcius, you can begin extruding.

    • Press extrude to extrude the filament.

    • Check the motion of the drive gear, it should turn anti-clockwise in order to feed filament into the hotend.

    • You should have a nice, straight stream of filament flowing from the nozzle.

    • NOTE: When powering down from a hot Hotend, power the hotend down first and let it cool to at least 100C before completely powering off the printer - as this prevents the heat from rising up the Hotend with the absence of the fan cooling it.

    • In case the extruder turns the other way, clockwise, you will need to reverse the motors direction in the firmware (INVERT_E0_DIR), see step 15 for doing so.

    So, what if you don’t have a nice straight stream of filament flowing… instead it just kind of bunches up in a ball? Eventually it falls down, but doesn’t look like a nice straight stream by any stretch. Also seems to keep oozing out. If I do 10mm instead of 5mm it seems to work better, except for the oozing after it is done.

    Jay - Reply

    I think the Red filament is damp or something. The blue seems to do fine (though still oozes).

    Jay -

    That is working as expected. Not smooth would be a stuttered or jerky as if the extruder were struggling.

    Makertech -

  25. First make sure that the beds power supply is plugged in and switched on at the mains. Set the bed temperature to 60 degrees Celsius. Press set to power on the bed.
    • First make sure that the beds power supply is plugged in and switched on at the mains.

    • Set the bed temperature to 60 degrees Celsius.

    • Press set to power on the bed.

    • A red LED on the back of the heated bed should shine to indicate heating.

    • Let the bed get up to 60 degrees before shutting it off.

    • Caution, avoid touching the bed when hot.

    For the bed, the terminal command states “set to 60 degrees Celsius” but the status line in Pronterface says B:45.00 / 45.00. I think this is a Pronterface problem. Tried setting to 110 as well, same thing. Says 45 and stops at 45 even when set to 110. This is Pronterface/Printrun 2.0.0rc5 for the Mac, which is all that will work macOS Catalina.

    Jay - Reply

    New version of Configuration.h has this:

    #define BED_MAXTEMP 70

    The version before that I was using was 55. Changing to 70 and I can now set Bed temp to 60 degrees instead of 45.

    Jay -

Finish Line

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Makertech

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