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I did not. Sorry I did not realize that I didn’t. Thank you for pointing that out.
I opened up the Marlin.io in the Arduino program, but it doesn’t have the tabs for configuration.h, Configuration_adv.h, or version.h like show in step 3. do I have to manually input them from the text files in the zip file?
Have you extracted all of the zip files’ contents first?
Thanks ! .
I Have been working on this for an hour. You guys need to make a video on how to do this or supply a flash drive with the software.
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In Configuration.h scroll to line 417 and set the TEMP_SENSOR_BED value to "1".
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In the Arduino IDE go to Sketch -> Include Library -> Manage Libraries...
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Search for TMCStepper and install the latest version.
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Replace A4988 with TMC2208 depending on where you have the drivers installed on the board.
In the wiring instructions it says the tmc2208s can be installed on the X, Y, Z and E1. So what is E0 in the configuration list?
That was a typo that’s been fixed now, it should have read X,Y,Z,E0 and E1. E0 is the first extruder, E1 is the second.
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Scroll to line 1067 (File -> Preferences -> display line numbers) and set as shown if that axis has a TMC2208 driver installed:
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INVERT_X_DIR true
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INVERT_Y_DIR true
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INVERT_Z_DIR false
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INVERT_E0_DIR true
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INVERT_E1_DIR true
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Once open, click INSTALL.
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Once done, you should get a success message, click OK and close the programme.
I use a Mac.
Step 1 is ok: Open terminal and type ‘ls /dev/tty*’ and then you will see devices like tty.wchusbserial;
Step 2 I don’t see “Vendor-Specific Device” but this:
BRCM2046 Hub:
ID prodotto: 0x4500
ID fornitore: 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.)
Versione: 1.00
Velocità: Fino a 12 Mb/sec
Produttore: Apple Inc.
ID posizione: 0x06100000 / 2
Corrente disponibile (mA): 500
Corrente necessaria (mA): 0
Controller host USB Bluetooth:
ID prodotto: 0x8213
ID fornitore: 0x05ac (Apple Inc.)
Versione: 2.08
Numero di serie: 00236CA7AF31
Velocità: Fino a 12 Mb/sec
Produttore: Apple Inc.
ID posizione: 0x06110000 / 3
Corrente disponibile (mA): 500
Corrente necessaria (mA): 0
Can you help me ?
Do I need to install a driver on Linux (Ubuntu 20.04)?
If it’s not connecting automatically, then yes.
This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here:
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Connect the AXIS to your PC via the usb cable.
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On windows you can open device manager by right clicking the windows icon. The Printer should show up as CH340, note the COM port number. In this case COM4.
Just to confirm, the USB3 really screws the interface.
i got EEPROM error, plugged into USB2 and away we went!
On MAc I can see this port: /dev/tty.wchusbserial620 . When i press “connect” it shows “connecting….” but it isn’t able to connect. I can wait hours but the system stays always in “connecting” mode. Help me please ! Thanks !
If you are using OSX El Capitan, to get the CH340 drivers to work you need to use the tool csrutil.
Reboot and press CMD+R immediately after hearing the startup sound to boot to Recovery Mode
Open Terminal
Execute the following command: csrutil enable --without kext
Reboot
My computer wont recognize the printer anymore. I only have a USB SS on my computer. Is there a way to downgrade the port or bypass it somehow? Please help!!!!
Try reinstalling the driver. Try a different PC also. If you’re still unable to connect then it’s likely the USB driver chip has been fried and the board would need replacing.
So my TMC2208 drivers didnt work, I installed the regular ones, and redid the firmware. I finally got a AXIS ready. I started testing the endstops and they work. All of a sudden, it disconnected. my computer wont recognize the printer. the LCD still lights up though. i only have USB 3.0 on my computer so thats what i was using. Did i fry my board?
My pc can’t detect the board.
I checked the cable, installed the firmware, closed other software…
Check the USB connection at both the printer and PC end, is it plugged in firmly?
Make sure you are not connecting into a USB 3.0 port.
Close other software that may be trying to access the printer, like any other slicer software, including Makertech Cura and the Arduino IDE also.
Check PC/MAC firewalls and antivirus software that might be blocking the connection.
With the board connected to the PC with the USB cable, press the red reset button at the centre of the board.
Make sure that you have the drivers installed:
When installing the driver make sure you are running as administrator and can make the necessary changes to your PC.
This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here:
it look like that is a micro usb. my board has a printer port on it and i did not get one of those
Port and cable is USB type B
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Go to tools and set the port to the COM number that is for the AXIS.
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Make sure that the board and processor are both set to Mega 2560.
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Finally upload the firmware to the AXIS.
when trying to upload I get this error message.
Arduino: 1.8.13 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
c:\program files (x86)\arduino\hardware\tools\avr\bin\../lib/gcc/avr/7.3.0/../../../../avr/bin/ar.exe: unable to rename 'core\core.a'; reason: File exists
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.
I extracted everything, haven’t moved anything or deviated from the instructions in anyway
Ok for anyone who had this problem, it worked fine the second time I tried.
Hi! I got the following error message, any help would be much appreciated!
C:\Users\srkah\AppData\Local\Temp\ccK5bmVA.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `main':
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/main.cpp:43: undefined reference to `setup'
C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino/main.cpp:46: undefined reference to `loop'
collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.
Make sure you've extracted the entire folder from the GitHub download .zip before opening in arduino.
Also make sure that the files are all still in the same folders, do not move anything.
I got this error message:
In file included from sketch\src\module/stepper/indirection.h:44:0,
from sketch\src\module/stepper.h:47,
from sketch\src\MarlinCore.cpp:37:
sketch\src\module/stepper/trinamic.h:29:10: fatal error: TMCStepper.h: No such file or directory
#include <TMCStepper.h>
^
~~~~~compilation terminated.
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.
Check that you have the driver library installed:
im getting a TMC connection error. In the wiring section i noticed the note about having one jumper per upgraded chip. i dont think i have the jumpers
That’s normal, as you will need to home before the printer knows where it is.
i did get the jumpers. thank you
I’m still getting a connection error
X, Y, and Z are flashing between 300,200,0 and ???, ???, ?
Brad -
Please contact us for jumpers, info@makertech3d.com
When we go to upload the firmware to the axis we get a timeout error. Could you please advise on how best to fix this?
Thank you.
Check the USB connection at both the printer and PC end.
Close other software that may be trying to access the printer, like any other slicer software, including Makertech Cura and the Arduino IDE also.
Check PC/MAC firewalls and antivirus software that might be blocking the connection.
Make sure that you have the drivers installed:
This driver is also available from the chip manufacturer here:
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Once the firmware has completed uploading, connect the AXIS to the mains.
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When powered up, check that the electronics fan and the hotend fan are both spinning.
My electronics Fan is running at full speed in idle. Is that normal? I will update the firmware anyway, since I get a TMC error at startup
Electronics fan always running is normal. So is the hotend fan. The TMC error is known and related to the board, the solution can be found here: https://www.makertech3d.com/apps/help-ce...
Electric Fan is not working. It is plugged into the Board.=> Is it broken? => How to get a new one (warranty)?
(hot ended fan is working)
Please contact us at info@makertech3d.com for a replacement fan.
My fans are not spinning, they did for a moment and then they didn”t,
I’ve already reuploaded the arduino software but it doest work. And yes before that I resetted it.
And yes they are plugged in
Please send us an email at info@makertceh3d.com. A compatible PSU can also be found here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/40004331...
24V, 4A minimum.
So I found the problem, one of my psu’s just broke after a couple of minutes, there also is some ratling inside of it.
How do I get a new one? as quickly as I can get one, I am prepared to buy one myself.
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Set the port to the same COM number.
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Set the baudrate to 250000.
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Finally, hit connect.
Hey MakerTech. When connectin in ponterface and i get the following error:
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3
echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)
echo:Compiled: May 1 2021
echo: Free Memory: 3141 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V76)
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E1 connection... Error: All LOW
echo:SD init fail
One guy commented the same issue here in the comments, but I don´t find the solution in the forums. Please provide me the solution. TY
Check that the jumpers under the drivers are connected properly. Double check that the TMC boards are plugged in the right way round. More info can be found on the help centre: https://www.makertech3d.com/apps/help-ce...
Probably a stupid questioin but I don’t know where I can turn it off and on again
The Axis doesn’t have an on/off switch, so it would have to be from the mains.
How can i reset the software on the AXIS when there has been a wrong. The printer when conected to the PC starts to beep und the Display says:
Err: MAXTEMP: E1
PRINTER HALTED
PLease Reset
Powering off and on again will reset the printer. If the problem persists then the hotend thermistor will need replacing, please contact us at info@makertech3d.com for replacement.
Is the USB cable supposed to stay plugged into the printer, and if so, where does the cord run when I sit the printer upright? If it’s supposed to run underneath, my printer doesn’t sit flat
After uploading the firmware and running through all of the checks you can remove the USB cable and print from the SD card in the LCD screen.
When connecting the printer to Pronterface, the following message showed up
“Error:MAXTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
[ERROR] Error:MAXTEMP triggered, system stopped! Heater_ID: bed
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!”
I have this error. But my fans worked and the heated bed was not even even heated up. Please help
Check the heated bed’s thermistor at first the board, is it plugged in securely and to the correct position? Next check the cable, does it look OK? Finally, carefully peel back the tape holding the bead in place on the heated bed and check that none of the wiring is exposed and shorting. As a final resort you may need to replace the thermistor.
First check that you don't have any of the jumpers under the TMC boards installed.
Then also make sure you have a single jumper installed on the corresponding UART position on the control board. Whilst powered off you can also trying removing an reinstalling the jumper.
See blue arrows:
Also check you have the latest library installed from step 4:
i have 2 Errors:
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3
echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)
echo:Compiled: Aug 14 2020
echo: Free Memory: 3407 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V76)
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
echo:SD init fail
OSX Catalina users:
You’ll either need to build pronterface yourself or you can use the binary linked in this thread (from their github issues):
https://github.com/kliment/Printrun/issu...
The one listed in their downloads is a 32bit binary (Catalina no longer supports 32bit apps).
yeah when i do this i get these results
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3
echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)
echo:Compiled: Aug 7 2020
echo: Free Memory: 3141 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:EEPROM version mismatch (EEPROM=? Marlin=V76)
echo:Hardcoded Default Settings Loaded
Testing X connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Y connection... Error: All LOW
Testing Z connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E connection... Error: All LOW
Testing E1 connection... Error: All LOW
echo:SD init fail
hopefully you can help
Could you please post this in forum, also mention what your setup is please, which drivers are installed.
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Send an M119 command to check the status of the endstops.
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They should all report back "open".
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Manually push down the X-Axis endstop, and whilst keeping it pushed, send the M119 command again. It should report back as "triggered".
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Repeat this for the Y-axis endstop also.
hello,
after sending M119 command i get triggered status on Y, What can i do to fix the problem!!
First make sure that the end stop is plugged into the correct port on the board. Try swapping the x/y endstops around, does the problem jump axes? If so contact us for a replacement y-endstop via info@makertech3d.com
Hi,
I have a problem with this step. After sending M119 command I get “TRIGGERED“ status on all endstops. What might be the problem? What should I check? I tried newest Marlin 2.0.6, There was some ERR with the EEPROM. Steering in XYZ axis works.
Allright, solved.
-I reflashed once again Marlin2.0.5.3,
-got ERR EEPROM version,
-Send the machine a M502 then M500 to write the current setting in firmware to the eeprom
-turned off and on, waited, than it worked ok (all triggers open, then checked triggered)
Bartosz -
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Whilst holding a metal object under the probe (a red light should shine) send the M119 command.
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Pronterface should return: z_min: TRIGGERED.
Check that the probes brown cable is connected to positive 24V power and that the printer is turned on.
My z-min is triggered al the time. How do i fix this?
Double check your wiring, the probe will only work when powered on from the mains. Does placing a metal object under it and sending the M119 command report it as open?
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X-Axis: Pressing the left arrow will move the bed to the right, and vice versa.
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Y-Axis: Pressing the down arrow will move the Hotend towards the front of the printer and vice versa.
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Z-Axis: Pressing the up arrow on the Z-axis will move the gantry up and vice versa.
I am having a problem with the z axis. The motor doesn’t appear to be turning. It doesn’t seem to be catching on anything and I increased the power flow to the motor by turning trimpot 1/6th of a turn clockwise. I also made sure all the cables were not pulled loose. What should I try next?
Is the shaft firmly connected to the coupling? If you’re certain the motors isn’t turning at all try swapping the driver for another known working one and do the same with motors cable. You can email us directly and we can help you with sending out a replacement part if need be! info@makertech3d.com
problem with Y axis, wasn’t moving at all when testing so powered down and loosened the eccentric guide a little. Now it works but goes most of the way out then stutters and can’t reach the outer end, then coming back in it gets stuck around the middle. However the guide isn’t tight any more, in fact if I loosen it any more it will be really wobbly.
Also up on the z axis moved the gantry down, is it ok to set the INVERT_Z_DIR to false to remedy this?
Sounds like not enough current is going to the motor. If you are running the red A4988 drivers you can increase the current by turning the trimpot on the driver board clockwise, do this when powered off and adjust in small increments (1/6th turns). Double check your belt too, make sure it isn’t catching on anything. Check also that the pulley is secure on the motor shaft. If you suspect that your gantry arm might be warped you can try bending it flat again or email us for a replacement at info@makertech3d.com.
The base is fine in talking about the arm with the hotend
Double check that the black platform is flat, you may need to bend it against a table edge slightly to get it flat, it doesn’t need to be perfect as autolevelling will compensate in software. Yes, inverting the z axis should correct the gantry motion.
Careful! While testing the X-Motion, I moved the Board to the maximum right (left arrow). it did not stop, it moved until it left the holders and the complete printer was falling to the right side due to the weight (fortunatly I was there to catch it).
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If an axis from the previous step moves in the wrong direction power off your printer.
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In the aruino IDE go to the "configuration.h" tab.
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Scroll down to lines 1066-1069. (Go to File -> Preferences and check "Display line numbers")
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#define INVERT_X_DIR true
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Change false to true to switch the motors direction depending on the problem axis (X, Y or Z).
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Re-upload the firmware.
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Continue from the previous step.
Touchscreen?
Typo carried forward from the 2S, it’s been corrected now.
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Home X - The platform will move all the way to the left until the end-stop on the base is triggered.
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Home Y - The hotend will move towards the z-pillar until the eccentric guide triggers the end-stop on the gantry.
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Lower the Z axis - Lower the gantry incrementally to check the that the nozzle is aligned with the top right corner of the print surface, this is your (300,200) co-ordinate.
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The hotend nozzle should be above the top right corner of the print surface.
Never mind, I solved it.
I’m getting this after I do the Y home:
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
[ERROR] Error:Printer halted. kill() called!
And then I can’t do anything until I disconnect and reconnect.
I do not understand this Step. I have tried this numerous times and when I hit the HOME (X, Y, Z) or the main HOME it rives to the the limit switch and keeps trying to move more…
We’ve added a little more info to this step, if you’re still having problems could you, in the forum, please post a short video of what the printer is doing wrong so we can better understand the problem.
Nothing from @makertech ….
Nicklas -
I am running the TCM 2208s. I ordered this with all upgrades. Yes, everything up until this point has worked fine. Do you have clearer direction pertaining to this step or an actual Support Number/Chat?
Nicklas -
Did all of the end-stops pass the checks from step 13? Your motors may not be getting enough power, if you’re running the a4988 drivers increase the current being sent to the corresponding motor by turning the trimpot incrementally clock wise.
When homing the Y-axis, it runs to the max length and then gets stuck and sends a kill order. Do i need to invert the motor? Since there’s no end stop for Y max i am wondering if it’s measuring the wrong thing
When the Hotend is furthest from the LCD display, that is it’s max point, I assume you mean that it’s running to the front of the gantry when you home, in that case you do need to invert your motor direction.
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Click "motors off" in Pronterface. Manually move the tool carriage so that the probe is hovering over the centre of the platform.
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Lower the gantry by hand so that the nozzle comes close to the print surface. Once close enough the red light on the probe should come on before the nozzle hits the print surface.
Motors Off command does not seem to work.
Pronterface sends M84, however afterwards I can still move all motors with the Pronterface commands
M84 will disable the motors so you can move them freely by hand, using pronterface to move them again is normal behaviour.
If X & Y are in Home position, then the probe is not over any metal and thus not triggered, is that correct? I take it we need to move the Y by -24 (forward from home) to get the probe over the Flexplate & heating bed, correct? Doing this, I was able to get my probe triggered when the head was about 0.5mm from the Flexplate.
Move the probe to the centre of the platform to get the best reading - instructions have just been updated.
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Home all of the axes by clicking here or sending G28.
When homing, my printer moves to the bottom left corner of the print surface, then crashes. The screen thinks its at 150, 74. Is there a way to fix this?
I mean pronterface of course, not octoprint
Ali Kara -
One update, I can't confirm my issue is solved:
It worked after I plugged the PSU in first and then connected with octoprint
Ali Kara -
I set the pins like you mentioned but the drivers still overshoot when homeing in pronterface. When I “auto home” without a pronterface connection, it works fine and stopes in the middle of the plate
Ali Kara -
The printers axes are over shooting. Check your drivers and the jumpers underneath them. Remember for the red A4988 drivers you need all three jumpers installed. For the white TMC2208 drivers, there shouldn’t be any installed under them, just one on the corresponding UART pins, see steps 17-20:
When homing, my X and Z axes move in position like shown, but my Y axis moves completely to the front. How can I fix this?
Most of the time with moving the Y-axis it behaves very strangely
If you swap the driver around does the problem move axes? If so, replace with the included spare driver. Remember to always be powered off, from both the mains and USB, when unplugging drivers.
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After successfully homing with G28 run the G29 autolevel command.
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Once a mesh is generated send M500 to save it to the printers memory.
Have a read through this post on the Z-axis and Z-wobble:
https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/...
The G29 command will probe the print platform, gantry should move up and down at each probing point.
If you find your Z-axis struggling to move it’s because there’s likely because the guides are on too tight or there’s not enough current going to the motor.
On the a4988 drivers you can turn the trimpot clockwise in small increments to increase current. For the TMC2208’s current is adjusted in firmware, please post in the forum for more help.
evrytime i run the command G29, the Z axis moves up and then i get this
SENDING:G29
echo:busy: processing
echo:busy: processing
Error:Probing Failed
[ERROR] Error:Probing Failed
I have adjusted the gantry as best i possibly can but it keeps coming up with the same problem, is the Z axis supposed to go up after every command i input?
Henry -
If the probe was trigerring fine from previous steps, then it’s likely that the gantry arm isn’t level enough. Power off and adjust the eccentric spacers on the gantry until the hotend is parallel with the platform in the Y-direction at both the front and back of the platform. The deviation should be no more than 2mm.
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Send G28 to home all axes.
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Send "M420 S0" to turn off the auto-levelling.
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Send M114 to report the nozzle position, the Z-axis should be at 0
If you are doing the leveling via this method, be sure to add into calculation the thickness of the sticker on top of your flex plate! The probe is not detecting that! I flipped over my flex plate and will remove the sticker in the near future. This removes any extra mm to the Z offset and provides a smooth surface to print on!
After this step, Z is at 1.9 but the probe and head are aligned as in step 19 with no room to lower Z to 0. Do I reset Z to 0 in this position? How?
I see that with Bed Leveling ON (M420 SO) Z is 2.41 and with Bed leveling OFF (M420 S0) Z is 1.9
Steps I took: Sent G28 -> display and Pronterface says Z is 1.9; Sent M420 S0 -> Bed Leveling OFF and Fade Height OFF; Sent M114 -> Z is still 1.9.
What does this measure? What do I have to adjust by 1.9mm ?
Make sure you have sent M420 S0 to turn of the auto-levelling offset.
Yes, lower to 0.
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Place a folded piece of paper between the nozzle and print surface. Lower the Z axis in 0.1mm increments until the nozzle grips onto the paper.
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Send the M114 command again to report the Z-axis position.
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The amount that you lowered the z axis by is your Z-offset.
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Enter M206 Z(value)
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Send an M500 command to save it to the printers memory.
How much “prevent the paper from moving” are we talking about here? I gets very difficult to move at -0.9, and stays about the same through -1.1. I was afraid to go further down in fear of ramming the head into the Flexplate. I’ll leave it with “M206 Z0.9” for now and see how things go. I wonder if I have too much play in my Z-axis. Not exactly easy to set this up as a newbie and not knowing what “right” is.
From how you’re describing it, 0.9 is fine. A thing to note about the z-axis is that there shouldn’t be any play in the lead screw between the bracket holding it down and the top of the z-motor shaft holding it up. The bracket should also be secured as flat.
What do you mean when you say that he grabs the paper? When does resistance or when it prevents to remove the paper?
And another question:
If the final result is between 0.1 and 0.9, should the command be sent with decimals?
When it prevents the moving of the paper. Yes, decimal values are OK to send.
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Take your PLA filament and cut a sharp end.
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Place the spool onto the holder and feed the filament in through the extruder like shown, until it hits the bottom of the hotend.
How far should the double extruder filament go? Which of the two filaments should reach the hotend?
For dual extrusion, the filament from the left extruder should reach the bottom of the hotend. Then the second filament should be fed to the splitter until it can’t go any further and then be pulled back by about an inch.
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Make sure that the 30mm fan is spinning, this fan should always be one, powering your hotend without this fan on will cause damage.
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Raise the gantry up by between 60-80mm
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Set the hotend to 200 degrees and press set to begin heating.
Grmpf, the step of inserting the tubing is definetly too late here! The pressure I had to apply to get is in was sufficinet to change my carefully set nozlle position. Now I have to go through all the steps of adjusting the perfect height again.
Thanks for the comment, we’ve moved that step to the end of the extruder stage.
Thanks for adding in the tubing directions to this step, but honestly it should probably come before the filament-insertion step. Inserting the filament without the tubing puts kinks in it and breaks it. also wouldn’t hurt to potentially elaborate on the tubing a bit more (it’s a straightforward step, but always nice to have an overkill explanation to make sure we are doing everything right…)
Hot end heats up until 151*C -> loud beep + message : Heating Failed: E1
1. Make sure on the hotend that there’s a gap between the heater block and heat sink.
2. Check the heater cables are secure on the board and nothing is causing any extra resistance.
3. Check that the thermistor is properly seated in the hotend and also plugged in securely to the board.
Wait. Where’s the step for installing the PTFE tubing?
Thanks for pointing this out about the brass coupling, it should be removed. The step has been updated.
Agreed, all of the sudden it seems I should have done this already and I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere. The “updated” step doesn’t really talk about what I’m doing to install this either. What is the brass screw nozzel on here too? I take it I take that off, but missing a step somewhere.
Jay -
Step has been updated to mention connecting the other end to the extruder.
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Once the hotend has reached 200 degrees celcius, you can begin extruding.
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Press extrude to extrude the filament.
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Check the motion of the drive gear, it should turn anti-clockwise in order to feed filament into the hotend.
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You should have a nice, straight stream of filament flowing from the nozzle.
Extruder not feeding filament. No blockage or kinks. I have tried 2 different cables.
Connecting...
start
Printer is now online.
echo:Marlin 2.0.5.3
echo: Last Updated: 2020-03-31 | Author: (none, default config)
echo:Compiled: Oct 13 2020
echo: Free Memory: 3438 PlannerBufferBytes: 1232
echo:V76 stored settings retrieved (704 bytes; crc 57056)
Testing X connection... OK
Testing Y connection... OK
echo:SD init fail
Try replacing the stepper driver, the kit should contain a spare. Make sure the power is off when replacing, double check the direction you are installing it in, if installed in reverse it will short and die when powered on.
What to do if there is no flow of filament? It started with a little bit, but it has now stopped.
Does the extruder still turn. Is the filament reaching the bottom of the hotend. Is the ptfe tubing pushed all of the way down. Disassemble the hotend and check for any blockages. If all looks okay then it’s likely a jammed nozzle and it will need replacing.
So, what if you don’t have a nice straight stream of filament flowing… instead it just kind of bunches up in a ball? Eventually it falls down, but doesn’t look like a nice straight stream by any stretch. Also seems to keep oozing out. If I do 10mm instead of 5mm it seems to work better, except for the oozing after it is done.
That is working as expected. Not smooth would be a stuttered or jerky as if the extruder were struggling.
I think the Red filament is damp or something. The blue seems to do fine (though still oozes).
Jay -
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First make sure that the beds power supply is plugged in and switched on at the mains.
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Set the bed temperature to 60 degrees Celsius.
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Press set to power on the bed.
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A red LED on the back of the heated bed should shine to indicate heating.
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Let the bed get up to 60 degrees before shutting it off.
The bed isn’t heating up. It keeps failing out. it also doesn't light up like shown in the picture. I tried redoing the internal wires.
While working on the extrusion one of my power cords stopped working. There is no blue light on the AC/DC Adapter box when it’s plugged in. What are the specs I’d need for a replacement cord? I’d like to get ones made for the US outlets as the adapters provided are rather terrible. They don’t want to stay plugged in.
The PSU spec. is 24V with a 2.5mm connector. Power should be 4A minimum, you can go higher.
For the bed, the terminal command states “set to 60 degrees Celsius” but the status line in Pronterface says B:45.00 / 45.00. I think this is a Pronterface problem. Tried setting to 110 as well, same thing. Says 45 and stops at 45 even when set to 110. This is Pronterface/Printrun 2.0.0rc5 for the Mac, which is all that will work macOS Catalina.
New version of Configuration.h has this:
#define BED_MAXTEMP 70
The version before that I was using was 55. Changing to 70 and I can now set Bed temp to 60 degrees instead of 45.
Jay -
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Can you make this a little more complicated to download.. Lost….
Tom Casper - Reply