Is there an adapter cable that goes on the end? I have a short cable that came in the box with the extruder. Also what looks like an extension to the extruder cable. Without it the cable seems too short.
When removing the original bolts, only back the out enough so they aren’t in the way of snapping on the filament sensor. The filament sensor will the help hold the extruder together. Then finish removing on bolt and replacing it with the new on. Finally, finish the other side.
Also, after trying combinations, I suggest no washers. The bolts are too short so you don’t use all of the threads on the nut when using washers.
So far, these are the worst directions I have run into. You will have to remove the two bolts holding the extruder together. To do this you will have to first unscrew the large black spring combination. The filament sensor kit includes two bolts, 4 washers and two nuts plus a ball bearing. I shave no idea what to do with the ball bearing. On the first print head I did, I put the washers on. That may be incorrect since the nut has little of the screw to work with. On the second I used a washer on the nut side only. Be careful when you screw in the screws. It is easy for the bolt to catch on the side of the filament sensors hole and start to break the plastic. As the screw exits the extruder, make sure it is traveling through the filament sensor hole. You will also wish you had done this before mounting the cable support. It gets in the way.
Also, the original extruder bolts use a larger Allen key than the filament sensor bolts.
The fan shrouds are very fragile. I was tightening a nyloc and it slipped and fell about 10 cm. That was enough to break a shroud on the piece the bolt goes through.
If you have skipped ahead before finishing the extruder install, you will find the hardware in a separate bag of enclosure parts.
Did I miss instructions to mount the extruders in the printer?
Is there an adapter cable that goes on the end? I have a short cable that came in the box with the extruder. Also what looks like an extension to the extruder cable. Without it the cable seems too short.
When removing the original bolts, only back the out enough so they aren’t in the way of snapping on the filament sensor. The filament sensor will the help hold the extruder together. Then finish removing on bolt and replacing it with the new on. Finally, finish the other side.
Also, after trying combinations, I suggest no washers. The bolts are too short so you don’t use all of the threads on the nut when using washers.
See my comment on step 19. You might want to do 19 before doing this step. The cable support is in the way in step 19 but it can be done.
So far, these are the worst directions I have run into. You will have to remove the two bolts holding the extruder together. To do this you will have to first unscrew the large black spring combination. The filament sensor kit includes two bolts, 4 washers and two nuts plus a ball bearing. I shave no idea what to do with the ball bearing. On the first print head I did, I put the washers on. That may be incorrect since the nut has little of the screw to work with. On the second I used a washer on the nut side only. Be careful when you screw in the screws. It is easy for the bolt to catch on the side of the filament sensors hole and start to break the plastic. As the screw exits the extruder, make sure it is traveling through the filament sensor hole. You will also wish you had done this before mounting the cable support. It gets in the way.
Also, the original extruder bolts use a larger Allen key than the filament sensor bolts.
As best I can tell, this installs label side to the inside.
Look ahead to step 13 to see proper orientation of heat sink core. It isn’t symmetrical. Step 13 shows the side holes.
The fan shrouds are very fragile. I was tightening a nyloc and it slipped and fell about 10 cm. That was enough to break a shroud on the piece the bolt goes through.
I just realized that the adapter and the extension are two different cables.
Page 1 of 2
Next