• If you plan to run the Proforge 3 with the Direct Drive extruder please continue to follow this guide.

    • If you intend to install the Dual Switching Hotend please continue your build from here.

  1. Locate these four parts for the Hotend: Heatsink
    • Locate these four parts for the Hotend:

    • Heatsink

    • Heater Block

    • Heatbreak

    • Nozzle

    • Secure the Heatbreak into the Heatsink.

  2. Fasten the Nozzle into the heater block. Note the side that it's fastened into.
    • Fasten the Nozzle into the heater block.

    • Note the side that it's fastened into.

    • Also leave approximately a 1mm gap between the nozzle and heater block.

  3. Fasten the Heater Block assembly to the Heatsink assembly.
    • Fasten the Heater Block assembly to the Heatsink assembly.

    • Apply the turning force through the nozzle.

    • Be careful not to apply too much force when tightening, as it may cause the heatbreak to snap!

  4. Fix the heater cartridge as shown. Tighten this bolt to secure it.
    • Fix the heater cartridge as shown. Tighten this bolt to secure it.

    • Slide the thermistor cartridge in place. Tighten this set screw to secure.

    • Make sure that the cables are point out of the side shown.

  5. Locate the Direct Drive Mount bracket. Secure to it the two 50mm blower fans as shown.
    • Locate the Direct Drive Mount bracket.

    • Secure to it the two 50mm blower fans as shown.

    • M4 x 22mm Button (x4)

    • M4 Nyloc Nut (x4)

  6. Fix the Hotend to the Mount with two M4 x 8mm button bolts. Ensure the Hotend is pushed all the way into the mount.
    • Fix the Hotend to the Mount with two M4 x 8mm button bolts.

    • Ensure the Hotend is pushed all the way into the mount.

    • Ensure that the Hotend's cables point to the left.

  7. The probe is secured to the back of the Mount as shown. The bottom of the probe should be between 1-2mm above the tip of the nozzle. The bottom of the probe should be between 1-2mm above the tip of the nozzle.
    • The probe is secured to the back of the Mount as shown.

    • The bottom of the probe should be between 1-2mm above the tip of the nozzle.

  8. Install the X-Endstop as shown. Note that the X-Endstop is the one with the longer 2M cable.
    • Install the X-Endstop as shown.

    • Note that the X-Endstop is the one with the longer 2M cable.

    • M2.5 x 12mm Bolt

    • M2.5 Nyloc Nut

  9. Secure the Mount to the Tool Carriage on the gantry.
    • Secure the Mount to the Tool Carriage on the gantry.

    • M3 x 6mm Cap Bolt

    • Have the cables come out of the left side of the mount.

  10. Cut 91mm of PTFE tubing. Push the tubing into the Hotend as shown.
    • Cut 91mm of PTFE tubing.

    • Push the tubing into the Hotend as shown.

  11. Secure the Orbiter Extruder as shown. The mounting holes line up with those on the hotend mount. The PTFE tube goes into this hole.
    • Secure the Orbiter Extruder as shown.

    • The mounting holes line up with those on the hotend mount.

    • The PTFE tube goes into this hole.

    • Secure with two M3 x 8mm Cap head bolts.

  12. Take the 3D printed mount and remove the support raft from underneath. Fix the fan with 4 M3 x 12mm bolts. Ensure the fan is installed sticker side in and with its cable aligned with the slot.
    • Take the 3D printed mount and remove the support raft from underneath.

    • Fix the fan with 4 M3 x 12mm bolts.

    • Ensure the fan is installed sticker side in and with its cable aligned with the slot.

  13. Begin by feeding the fans cable into the left side of the mount as shown. Push the cooling fan mount assembly onto the metal mount. Secure with two M3 x 20mm bolts. Avoid over tightening.
    • Begin by feeding the fans cable into the left side of the mount as shown.

    • Push the cooling fan mount assembly onto the metal mount.

    • Secure with two M3 x 20mm bolts. Avoid over tightening.

    • Before continuing, use a marker to mark the hotend cooling fan's connector, this will come in handy later when wiring.

  14. Use the braided sleeving to wrap the cables from the tool head. Use two cable ties to secure it to the hotend mount as shown. Extend the tool head to the bottom right corner.
    • Use the braided sleeving to wrap the cables from the tool head.

    • Use two cable ties to secure it to the hotend mount as shown.

    • Extend the tool head to the bottom right corner.

    • Secure the other side of the cable loom to the rear of the printer.

    • Feed all of the cables into the base. Fix the loom to the base with cable ties.

    • The Orbiter cable is short, but included is a black extension cable, use this to reach the control board.

  15. Take the filament sensor mount and fix to it the PC4 Coupling. The coupling can thread straight into it, you will need to use a pair of pliers to turn and secure it. Secure it along with the filament sensor to the side of the printer. You can secure it to either side of the printer.
    • Take the filament sensor mount and fix to it the PC4 Coupling. The coupling can thread straight into it, you will need to use a pair of pliers to turn and secure it.

    • Secure it along with the filament sensor to the side of the printer.

    • You can secure it to either side of the printer.

    • M3 x 25mm Cap bolt

    • M3 Nyloc Nut

  16. Finally, attach the PTFE tube from the filament sensor assembly to the Orbiter Extruder.
    • Finally, attach the PTFE tube from the filament sensor assembly to the Orbiter Extruder.

    • The length of the tubing should be approx 60cm.

Finish Line

2 other people completed this guide.

Makertech

Member since: 03/09/2018

32,840 Reputation

85 Guides authored

2 Comments

I cut the tubing for run from the motor to the hotend to 3 1/2 inches (89 mm), which is very slightly too short - 3 9/16 (90.5 mm) would probably be better. The guide just shows “…” right now.

Greg Murnane - Reply

Where the Orbiter extruder cable have to be connected? It is extended, but where i have to connect it?

Walentin - Reply

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