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If you plan to run the Proforge 3 with the Direct Drive extruder please continue to follow this guide.
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If you intend to install the Dual Switching Hotend please continue your build from here.
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Locate these four parts for the Hotend:
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Heatsink
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Heater Block
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Heatbreak
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Nozzle
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Secure the Heatbreak into the Heatsink.
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Fasten the Nozzle into the heater block.
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Note the side that it's fastened into.
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Also leave approximately a 1mm gap between the nozzle and heater block.
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Fasten the Heater Block assembly to the Heatsink assembly.
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Apply the turning force through the nozzle.
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Be careful not to apply too much force when tightening, as it may cause the heatbreak to snap!
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Fix the heater cartridge as shown. Tighten this bolt to secure it.
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Slide the thermistor cartridge in place. Tighten this set screw to secure.
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Make sure that the cables are point out of the side shown.
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Locate the Direct Drive Mount bracket.
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Secure to it the two 50mm blower fans as shown.
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M4 x 22mm Button (x4)
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M4 Nyloc Nut (x4)
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Fix the Hotend to the Mount with two M4 x 8mm button bolts.
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Ensure the Hotend is pushed all the way into the mount.
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Ensure that the Hotend's cables point to the left.
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The probe is secured to the back of the Mount as shown.
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The bottom of the probe should be between 1-2mm above the tip of the nozzle.
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Install the X-Endstop as shown.
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Note that the X-Endstop is the one with the longer 2M cable.
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M2.5 x 12mm Bolt
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M2.5 Nyloc Nut
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Secure the Mount to the Tool Carriage on the gantry.
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M3 x 6mm Cap Bolt
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Have the cables come out of the left side of the mount.
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Secure the Orbiter Extruder as shown.
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The mounting holes line up with those on the hotend mount.
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The PTFE tube goes into this hole.
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Secure with two M3 x 8mm Cap head bolts.
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Take the 3D printed mount and remove the support raft from underneath.
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Fix the fan with 4 M3 x 12mm bolts.
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Ensure the fan is installed sticker side in and with its cable aligned with the slot.
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Begin by feeding the fans cable into the left side of the mount as shown.
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Push the cooling fan mount assembly onto the metal mount.
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Secure with two M3 x 20mm bolts. Avoid over tightening.
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Before continuing, use a marker to mark the hotend cooling fan's connector, this will come in handy later when wiring.
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Use the braided sleeving to wrap the cables from the tool head.
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Use two cable ties to secure it to the hotend mount as shown.
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Extend the tool head to the bottom right corner.
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Secure the other side of the cable loom to the rear of the printer.
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Feed all of the cables into the base. Fix the loom to the base with cable ties.
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The Orbiter cable is short, but included is a black extension cable, use this to reach the control board.
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Take the filament sensor mount and fix to it the PC4 Coupling. The coupling can thread straight into it, you will need to use a pair of pliers to turn and secure it.
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Secure it along with the filament sensor to the side of the printer.
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You can secure it to either side of the printer.
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M3 x 25mm Cap bolt
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M3 Nyloc Nut
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Finally, attach the PTFE tube from the filament sensor assembly to the Orbiter Extruder.
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The length of the tubing should be approx 60cm.
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Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
2 other people completed this guide.
2 Comments
I cut the tubing for run from the motor to the hotend to 3 1/2 inches (89 mm), which is very slightly too short - 3 9/16 (90.5 mm) would probably be better. The guide just shows “…” right now.