-
-
Prepare 12 rail mounts as shown by loosely fastening a T-nut onto the M5 bolt.
-
M5 x 8mm Button Head
-
M5 T-nut
-
-
-
Fix the mount assemblies from the previous steps onto the four 460mm long MGN12 rails.
-
Space them out as shown with two fixed one forth edge and the third in roughly the middle.
-
M3 x 6mm Cap Bolt
-
Use the orange stoppers to prevent the carriage from falling off the rail.
-
-
-
Mount the rail assemblies onto the inside of the frame as shown.
-
The end of the rail should fall onto the bracket near the base.
-
-
-
Mount Z-brackets onto the rail carriages with M3 x 45mm Cap Bolts.
-
Match the orientation of the brackets as shown in the images.
-
-
-
Fix the lead screw nut onto the bracket.
-
M5 x 20mm Bolt (Button head - image is incorrect)
-
Orientate the nut as shown.
-
-
-
Add the M5 x 12mm Grub screw to the lead screw nut as shown.
-
Tighten until you feel some resistance, the purpose of this grub screw is to prevent backlash along the nut and lead screw.
-
Do not tighten to the point that the lead screw will no longer turn. You should still have smooth rotation of the lead screw through the nut.
-
-
-
Fix the lead screws to the Z-motors with the plum couplings.
-
Tighten the bolts on the coupling to fix in place.
-
If you have the upgraded Oldham Couplings please see the next step.
-
-
-
Fix the lead screws to the Z-motors using the Oldham Couplings. They come in a bag in three pieces, the pieces can be slid on to each other to create one coupling.
-
M3 x 6mm Bolt
-
M3 x 8mm Bolt
-
There was an oversight with an initial batch (pre-2024) of the couplings where the correct number of fasteners were not included - they have now been shipped to everyone.
-
-
-
Stick over the aluminium platform plate the magnetic flex-plate sticker.
-
You may find this sticker, being magnetic, stuck onto the back of the black PEI flexplate in the packaging.
-
Ensure it is stuck onto the side shown in the images.
-
Peel away the backing paper from the magnetic sheet. Begin by sticking it to one of the shorter edges pressing it down carefully preventing any air bubbles. Use a credit card to press the sticker down, pushing out any potential air pockets.
-
After sticking the sheet down use a craft/box knife to cut away where shown to expose the holes. Use a pin to poke through the other side of the plate to make where you should cut.
-
You don't need to be particularly neat about these cuts, this sticker will have the flexplate go over it.
-
-
-
Peel the backing paper away from the heater pad.
-
Fix the heater onto the centre of the underside of the platform as shown.
-
Ensure the cables are on the side with the M4 threaded hole as shown.
-
Make sure the hole is not covered either.
-
-
-
Fix the 1M Earth cable to the platform with an M4 x 6mm button head bolt.
-
-
-
Cut 70cm of the braided sleeving and wrap the heater and earth cables with it.
-
-
-
Prepare the four platform brackets as shown.
-
M5 x 8mm Button
-
M5 T-nut
-
M4 x 10mm Brass Standoff
-
-
-
Arrange the extrusions as shown and mount the platform assembly onto them.
-
2020 Extrusion - 630mm
-
2020 Extrusion - 333mm
-
Make sure to push the cables through the centre of the frame.
-
-
-
Mount the platform assembly onto the z-brackets.
-
Align the extrusions flush with the brackets.
-
-
-
Fix the cables to the bottom of the platform frame with the 3d printed bracket.
-
M5 x 8mm Button
-
M5 T-Nut
-
Use cable ties to secure the heated bed cables to it as shown.
-
Route the cables into the base.
-
-
-
Wire the heated bed as shown:
-
Bed Signal Cables - 30cm
-
Bed Power Cables
-
One cable to SSR Relay
-
One cable to N terminal on 48v PSU
-
Bed Thermistor - Plug into control board
-
Bed Earth - Bolt to Base
-
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
16 other people completed this guide.