For what it is worth if you have the original proforge 3 without the MIC6 bed, I used this entry in my printer.cfg from Akisame (https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/...). I also PID tuned the bed after swapping this out (PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=80 then SAVE_CONFIG when complete).
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PD7
sensor_type: NTC 100K MGB18-104F39050L32 #This seems to work for my non-mic-6 bed. The official firmware assumes the Keenovo AC silicone mats, most Wanhao i3 machines - beta 3950, 1%
Note that if you have the standard build plate (not MIC6 upgrade), the standoffs are M3. I used a M3 washer behind the M4 penny washer (I didn't have a M3 penny washer) in addition to M3 T-nuts.
Caution, don't over tighten or the magnet splits into about 10 pieces.. ugg
Minor typo there: http://mainsail.local
For what it is worth if you have the original proforge 3 without the MIC6 bed, I used this entry in my printer.cfg from Akisame (https://www.forum.makertech3d.com/forum/...). I also PID tuned the bed after swapping this out (PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=80 then SAVE_CONFIG when complete).
[heater_bed]
heater_pin: PD7
sensor_type: NTC 100K MGB18-104F39050L32 #This seems to work for my non-mic-6 bed. The official firmware assumes the Keenovo AC silicone mats, most Wanhao i3 machines - beta 3950, 1%
sensor_pin: PA1
control: pid
pid_Kp: 10.0 #re-calibrate for yourself.
pid_Ki: 0.023
pid_Kd: 305.4
min_temp: 5
max_temp: 120
Note that if you have the standard build plate (not MIC6 upgrade), the standoffs are M3. I used a M3 washer behind the M4 penny washer (I didn't have a M3 penny washer) in addition to M3 T-nuts.
I hit the back of the lightstrip (the frame of the printer) with a heat gun while I removed it. Worked just fine.
Just ensure that jumper is set correctly (naked pin closest to SD card slot)