This is normal. The first layers printing temp is a little higher to help with adhesion to the platform.

The Axis doesn’t have an on/off switch, so it would have to be from the mains.

Powering off and on again will reset the printer. If the problem persists then the hotend thermistor will need replacing, please contact us at info@makertech3d.com for replacement.

There are two blue arrows pointing to the UART jumpers. They are also marked on the board itself and the connectors are colour coded green.

Is the shaft firmly connected to the coupling? If you’re certain the motors isn’t turning at all try swapping the driver for another known working one and do the same with motors cable. You can email us directly and we can help you with sending out a replacement part if need be! info@makertech3d.com

After uploading the firmware and running through all of the checks you can remove the USB cable and print from the SD card in the LCD screen.

That should be your order number from the store or your backer number from the kickstarter. Please message us if you’re unsure - info@makertech3d.com.

Check that the probes brown cable is connected to positive 24V power and that the printer is turned on.

Apologies that the spool holder was missing. Please complete this form and we’ll it sent out asap.

The purpose of the bracket is only to prevent the lead screw from bouncing during autolevelling and z-height fading. Reducing pressure may help as it’s likely the bracket is on at an angle. Also note that the lead screw itself should be able to wobble and not be ocnstricted of doing so by the bracket. This wobble is normal as we want the lead screw and spring coupling to adsorb it and not have it being transferred onto the gantry arm and in turn the print.