The PTFE tape is optional, but we found that it helped to prevent any leakage. You can also assemble without the tape but then just remember to tighten the nozzle again with the hotend heated up to printing temp.

The 685ZZ bearing is with the other mechanical parts in box B.

Yes, aluminium bed does not need the black platform, that was part of an older design.

Hi David,

On Windows right click on the start icon and go to device manager. With device manager open connect the printer via usb, it should pop-up as a new COM port. If not try connecting the usb cable directly to the control board, you may have a bad mount cable which we can replace if this is the case.

If the printer is connecting but just not showing up on the Arduino software then we recommend downgrading to version 1.8.1 (the one used in these instructions). Older Arduino IDE’s can be found here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwa...

Hi David,

On Windows right click on the start icon and go to device manager. With device manager open connect the printer via usb, it should pop-up as a new COM port. If not try connecting the usb cable directly to the control board, you may have a bad mount cable which we can replace if this is the case.

If the printer is connecting but just not showing up on the Arduino software then we recommend downgrading to version 1.8.1 (the one used in these instructions). Older Arduino IDE’s can be found here: https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/OldSoftwa...

Hi Jeffrey, when the end of the bolt hits the nyloc you will need to apply more force to take it 1cm up. Use a pair of pliers to hold the nut and then use an allen key to turn the bolt.

Check the polarity of the power cables from the heated bed to the MOSFET, you might have them the wrong way round.

When using with the DSE we recommend mounting to the other side of the platform to avoid a crash.

The Pi3B board is compatible but will require a USB WiFi dongle to connect to a network.

Try swapping the motor cables around and see if the problem changes motors.